For Divider, Log & Slab Molds
This is not a difficult procedure. Basically you read the
instructions which come with your silicone then, mix the
silicone, pour it onto the textured surface and trim the piece of
silicon to fit inside your mould box. Firstly you need to purchase the
silicone which usually comes in a tin along with a small bottle of catalyst.
Simply follow the mixing instruction which come with the silicone.
Make sure you pay attention to the amounts of catalyst
needed as on my first attempt, I added a little too much and
this sped up the curing considerably, forced me to move faster and
because the mixture had started to thicken slightly it made it difficult to
get the silicone into the finer details of the textured pattern I was using.
Avoid mixing too vigorously as this will incorporate bubbles which
will ruin the detail of the texture which in turn spoils the finished
product. For this tutorial I am using a piece of
textured glass which is a leftover from one of my previous crafts.
Make a wall around the area of the texture you want your finished
size you need. I used narrow strips of cardboard for mine. Allow a little
more to the size of the border as you can trim it off later to fit the
mould. This can be plasticine, putty, Blue-Tack, cardboard and packaging
tape. It only needs to be deep enough to cover the surface of the pattern
and contain the silicone within the wall.
You can see how the surface is uneven, the mix thickened
up too fast because I added a little too much of the catalyst but the
important textured side worked fine. Pour in the
silicone and hopefully its still liquid enough to Self Level but just in
case have a flat ended spatula or similar, ready to push the mix into the
areas you need to cover. Try and keep the surface flat also because this can
make the finished insert sit unevenly in the mould.
Silicone will peel away easily when it has set after 12
hours. Silicone usually releases easily from most surfaces and as I was
using textured glass which is non absorbent I didnt need to seal the
When the insert is ready to use simply lay it on the
bottom of your mould and pour your soap as you normally do.
When its finished the bottom will end up being the top of
the soap bar showing its textured surface
Sealing the Surface Before Making the Mould. I soon worked out that silicone
is an expensive medium with, and I found polyurethane did the same job at
half the cost, but if you use polyurethane you will need to seal whatever
you are molding with a mould release product. It would be wise to have a
little practice first before making your major project. Just to get the feel
of the polyurethane. Any mould release agent will do, I used a spray on
silicone which I bought at the hardware shop.
You can useWD-40 in the
distinctive blue and yellow spray can, the same product you use on car
engine distributors to keep the water out. Another is CRC Silicone Spray
which also comes in an aerosol can. You can use any product which will form
a thin film between the glass and the polyurethane. Liquid Wax was is
another. Apply them thinly and using a fine brush spread the release agent
into all nooks and crannies and let dry. If your using the polyurethane,
then make sure you let it cure for the full 24 hours or it is mighty hard to
pull it away from the glass. You dont need to use a release agent with
I then made another insert using the polyurethane and I
was much happier with the way it behaved while using it. Not only did I have
more time to pour but it was more liquid and filled all the nooks and
crannies giving a beautifully detailed result. You will need to let the
polyurethane cure for at least 24 hours before peeling it away.
Its very flexible.
The following photos are those of other soaps using the
patterned silicone and polyurethane liner.
Soap Mold Tutorial Provided by Terry “Nizzy”