Make Cold Process Soap Embeds Tutorial

I found some really economically priced silicone ice cube
moulds in the shapes of small butterflies, only $2.00 per mould with 13
small butterflies to each mould. My fertile mind began to kick in and I
thought these would like nice in a bar of soap so I purchased a few of them
to make up this tutorial.


I got to work and made up some un-fragranced cold process
(CP) soap. I used 5 colors which I thought would compliment each other
while set in a base of white CP. The butterflies are approximately 30mm X

Here you can see the different colors in the silicone
moulds waiting to set.


The soaps popped out easily enough and I had planned on
using my soap planer to slice them into thin slivers but the soap was too
fresh and they were curling up so I used one of my small paring knives with
a thin blade to slice them up by hand. They then kept their flat shape even
if they were a little thicker than I had anticipated.

I let them dry out for week.


All ingredients ready to go, along with the sliced up


The soap is now at ‘trace’ ready for the addition of the


I fragranced the CP soap and added the butterflies. I
realized I could have had had more butterflies in the amount of CP I made
up. Its amazing just how much of the re-batched butterflies you can fit into
a small amount of CP.


The mix was poured into the mould box and using a gloved
hand :-) I poked the butterflies down to the bottom of the mould box so they
would be flat as I didn’t have enough of the butterflies cut to give a good
solid filling so to make sure I had at least one good solid covering of the
butterflies I pushed them to the base.


You can see how bare the surface looks after unmolding.


The base is a different story :-) Pushing them into the by
hand has paid off!
Now they are ready to push out of the cavities.


The finished bars turned out just as I had visualized them
in my head.


Tutorial Provided by Terry


silicone soap molds


Make Salt Soap Tutorial

The main part of your oils and butters should be coconut
oil. This will make sure your soap stays bubbly; even with a high salt
content. To compensate the drying effect of coconut oil, you’ll have to discount your
lye by about 15 to 20%.

For this batch I’ll use this recipe:

  • coconut oil 95% 475 grams
  • castor oil 5% 25 grams
  • water 190 grams
  • lye 72 grams
  • 60% of the weight of the oils in fine non-iodized table salt.

You could add up to 100% of the weight of your oils in
salt. Any salt but epsom salt is okay to use. All comes down to personal

salt soap picture 1

Preparing colored sea salt

This is something that I really like; but it isnt
A few days before I plan to make salt soap, I take out some coarse sea salt
and color it with blue food coloring. Just add a couple of drops to the sea
salt and mix real well.
Let is sit for a while to dry.

salt soap picture 2
Get prepared

  • I clean and sanitize my working space and get everything I need within reach.
  • Prepare your lye solution by measuring the lye and water. I use a very
    sturdy plastic pitcher for my water and slowly add the lye to it while
    stirring gently.
  • Let it cool down to room temperature.
  • Make sure you never use containers that easily overheat for mixing your lye
    solution (like glass jars) and stay away from aluminum.!
  • Measure out your oils/butter and soften them up in the microwave, on a low
    or medium temp.
  • I directly add my EOs to the oils. Here I use a combo of amber, ylang ylang
    and bergamot.
  • Line your mold and prepare your color(s).

salt soap picture 3

Add your lye mixture to your oils and stick blend
Stop when you reach a light trace.

Add the salt

salt soap picture

Mix the salt through your soap batter with a stainless steel spoon.

salt soap picture 5

Ill be using 5 colors for this batch; blue, gray-blue, light blue, sea green and a
bit of white.
Divide your soap batter over different containers and add each color. Mix it
trough with a spoon until full incorporated.

salt soap picture 6

In the pot swirl
Now transfer all the colors back into one bowl and mix them gently. Dont
stir to much or everything will just get bland.

salt soap picture 7

salt soap picture 8

salt soap picture 9

Into the mold.
I grab the mold and slam it on my counter a couple of times to avoid air

salt soap picture _10

The finishing touches: to keep a ‘nautical theme.
I sculpt the top with a spoon until it resembles a little wave. Remember
that colored sea salt? Nows the time to add it. Add a lot; not everything
will stick to the top and a lot will fall of while cutting later on.

salt soap picture _11

salt soap picture _12

up and my least favorite bit about soap making…
Cover up your log with saran wrap to prevent ash.

salt soap picture _13


Get your log out of the mold as soon as it has set up and
cut it.
This time I fell asleep with my doggy curled up next to me on the sofa and
totally forgot I had to cut my salt soap. It was incredibly hard to cut the
next day!

salt soap picture _14

Clean your soap up, rub it with a damp cloth and trim the edges if you want

salt soap picture _15

Author: Dagmar


turtle soap mold

The nature of the Handmade Soap analysis-1

Conditions of good soap

What kind of soap is a good soap?

(1) to completely remove the dirt (clean power)

(2) excellent foaming ability (foaming power)

(3) an appropriate degree of hardness (hardness)

(4) is not easy to soften (not softening)

(5) won in the use of custody does not perishable (stability)

(6) will not be over-stimulating to the skin (appropriate muscle)

Basically, as long as they meet the above conditions are to be regarded as a good soap.

(1) – (6) because of personal skin appropriate and inappropriate circumstances.

Prior investigation of the nature of good soap to use, then, of course, would be better.

Dry skin and sensitive skin, it is best to choose clean power weaker, but less likely to stimulate the skin soap.

Oily skin, you need to choose to thoroughly clean the skin fat and dirt, soap.

That being said, Handmade books are mentioned is nothing more than soap with moisturizing olive oil for the spindle, If you add the coconut oil will increase the soap bubble, but it will make dry skin … and so on instructions, but still people do not know how to make soap recipe for your own skin.

Although you can choose from a number of public soap formula began to try to confirm, but to make a handmade soap usually takes a month or more, such a test does not take much time to find the right skin soap. Writing, the case made out of soap trial, I felt not suitable when processing the rest of the soap is also a problem.

silicone soap molds

Soaps raw material-primrose oil

Overview: is achieved by crushing the seeds and vegetable oil, pale yellow color.
Beauty: excellent lubrication economy, an excellent natural moisturizer. Promote blood circulation, so that the aging of cells to restore vitality. Can maintain the skin’s natural light, soft, and has a regeneration function. Suitable for mature, aging, wrinkles, dry and scaly like skin, dandruff, wound healing. Is eczema, defects, infant repeatedly cloth rash of maintenance oil.
Health: can dilate blood vessels, promote blood circulation, regulating hormones, have a great efficacy in the prevention of cardiovascular disease. Through massage can improve the symptoms of hyperactive children; improve menstrual problems, premenstrual discomfort, menopausal disorders and arthritis.
Ingredients: vitamin E, and F, fatty acids, gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, protein, minerals.
Features: can lower cholesterol. The composition contains a large amount of linoleic acid is the main factor of its efficacy.
Suggested Use: directly on the skin, the treatment of skin allergies, can also be used to dilute essential oils.


soap mold

How To Use Soap Stamps Tutorial

How To Use Soap Stamps Tutorial

To Stamp:

Set your soap on a flat surface, align your stamp, and tap in with a hammer
or mallet until at the desired depth is reached and lift straight out.
Ensure to tap all corners and sides of the stamp in. If the stamp is large
or has a lot of surface area (there is lot of soap to displace), the hammer
may not be effective enough, so the stamp may need to be pushed in by hand,
using your body weight and pressing in all sides and corners. For best
results ensure the stamping surface on your soap is cut flat and level.


To increase the life of your stamp please store away from
UV light. Dry completely before storage to avoid damage to the wood handle.
Stamp faces clean well with a wet toothbrush or bristly paint brush. Do not
expose to temperatures over 50C or 120F or the face many become soft and/or
distort. Do not use on hot soap or hot candle wax. These stamps are intended
for use only on handmade soap.


To reduce soap sticking to the stamp, you can lubricate
the stamp with water, oil, or starch. Starch (corn or tapioca) can be dusted
over a sticky soap surface to reduce tackiness.

Avoid stamping around soap edges and pressing too hard
and fast or the bar may distort, especially with large stamps and thin/small
bars. If your soap is too soft (just cut) or too hard, stamping may also
cause distortion.

Most stamp their soaps several days after cutting, when
the exterior is dry and smooth to produce a clean image, but the interior is
still soft and will compress to accept the stamp without distortion.

To add a bit of back ground color, you can dip the
surface of the stamp in some natural colorants, like cocoa, turmeric,
cinnamon, est…, as well as micas and then stamp your soap.

Whipped soap is by far the best soap for stamping as it
compresses easily due to the tiny air bubbles that give way to the stamp,
reducing displaced soap crumbles on the surface, and with reduced water
dries faster and is more resistant to sticking to the stamp. HP is the
second best stamping soap due to it’s firmer consistency, CP can be slightly
more challenging to stamp due to surface softness while curing which can
lead to sticking, MP is the most challenging because it is very soft and
isn’t dried out. Although different soap types and recipes (oil types/water
amounts) all respond differently to stamping, it just takes a bit of
experimenting to find the best stamping method, timing and designs for your
type of soap.

Test stamps at different stages of soap drying to
determine the best time to stamp for your soaps. As different people use
different ingredients, water quantities, different stamp types, and pressing
methods, some may find pressing most easy just after cutting while others
may wait several days or weeks. Most stamp their soaps several days after
cutting, when the exterior is dry and smooth to produce a clean image, but
the interior is still soft and will compress to accept the stamp without
splitting the soap.

Types of Stamps and Stamping Method:

Stamps with a large surface area: These stamp usually
stamp better into soft to medium softness soap, lightly dusted with corn
starch to reduce sticking. Stamps with large surface generally compress soap
as opposed to displacing it, so soft soap is preferable as it compresses
more easily. Large surface area stamps are usually stamps that are “shapes”
and blocky, without great detail or thin lines. These stamps also imprint
better if pushed in in a circular motion to ensure all sides are imprinted
and to ease the stamp in to reduce distortion.

Stamps with fine detail and small surface area: These
stamps usually stamp better on hard soap (but not rock solid), moistened
with water or oil to prevent sticking and help flatten displaced soap.
Stamps with very detailed lines, thin lines, and many nooks generally slice
through the soap and are more prone to soap sticking in little details than
blocky stamps. These stamps are generally text and word stamps. They also
displace soap, so it is advisable to press the stamp straight down and lift
straight up to reduce lumps and soap caught in the details. It is also
advisable to take great care with these detailed stamps or stamps with thin
lines, as they are more prone to break if dropped or treated harshly.

Author: Kaseen Cook

soap mold plans

How To Make Your Own Custom Silicone Soap Molds Tutorial

How To Make Your Own Custom Silicone Soap Molds Tutorial

By Kaseen Cook, Tortuga Soaps

Silicone soap moulds are great for custom shapes and
applications,and easy to make in an afternoon. You can create very precise
looking soap shapes from all sorts of shapes and sizes of containers,
or carve your own soap shape.


  • RTV silicone (preferably one with a Shore A hardness of 20 or
    greater for the stability of the mould (so your soaps dont come out
    twisted if your mould is not flat) and to reduce the thickness of
    silicone needed on the edges and therefore the overall cost per
    mould. In this instruction pamphlet, we are using Pinky silicone by
    Barnes in Australia. It is available locally at most fiberglass shops or
    online at Barnes or Adelaide Molding and Casting. Pinky is ideal
    because it has an easy 1:1 mix ratio, is skin safe with no fumes, is
    very fluid which reduces bubbles in the mould, and sets in about 20
    minutes (as opposed to most which take 12-24 hours). It is a bit more
    expensive than other silicones, but is worth is for its great
  • Wood, plastic or cardboard strips about 5-9cm tall for
    framing the
    moulds. (Anything that makes a good corale)
  • Plaster of Paris


    • Mix plaster to a pudding like
      consistency, and pour into the
      container that you would like your soap to be shaped like. Or
      pour into a block to carve your own. Let set for 30-40 minutes
      or till cool (plaster will warm up as it chemically hardens).


    • Unmold your plaster soap, tidy up and
      polish. When
      removing and smoothing jagged edges or when sculpting the
      bar, working under a light stream of water really helps to
      make the cuts very smooth and wash away debris. You can
      also polish or patch your bar by taking some freshly mixed
      plaster and lightly smoothing a tiny amount over the bar with
      a finger while under light stream of water. This deposits a thin
      layer of fresh plaster that is smoothed and shined by the
      trickle of water. At this stage, it is advisable to make a silicone
      mould of the plain soap model iincase the engraving doesnt go well on the first go,
      or if you accidently drop it or may
      want to engrave something different in the future it
      definitely saves time and anguish to have a mould of the


    • Prepare your design for transfer to
      the plaster and print with
      an ink jet printer (or any printer with water based ink, youll
      know it is water based if it bleeds when it gets wet). I make
      my designs in blue (as blue ink transfers better than black),
      and then flip horizontally so the text will read correctly when
      the paper is face down. If you are having a hard time flipping
      or colouring your design, just shoot me an e-mail and your
      design to, and I can easily
      help format your design for you and save you the frustration
      if you are not computer savvy.


    • On your moist plaster model, with a
      dry surface, press the
      design with a wetted finger (but not too wet! Just moist), just
      until the deign shows through the back of the paper and is not
      bleeding horizontally. If is it bleeding horizontally there is too
      much water and/or your plaster surface it too wet (sit on a
      dry towel for 5min to soak a bit out) and/or you are not using
      enough pressure to squeeze the ink directly downwards and
      into the plaster.



    • Engrave the design by removing the
      plaster where the ink is.
      The ink will fade gradually, so it is best to engrave right away.
      If the design is complicated and will take a while to engrave,
      go over the whole design lightly with a tool to just scrape the
      surface, then when the ink fades the design will still be there
      and you can take your time engraving. To make a deep
      engraving, it is better to do a little at a time from each letter or
      area and go back for multiple passes. This helps to avoid
      breaking plaster in tiny details and makes for a more accurate
      carving. You can use small flat screwdrivers, long needles,
      thin tweezers, tools from a dissection kit, or whatever you
      want! It is best to keep the plaster moist while working,
      because dry plaster is hard to carve, dusty and messy, and
      chips and breaks really easily when engraving.


    • Rinse the debris from your model and
      sit bottom down on a
      dry towel to absorb surface water. Be careful not to towel dry
      the top and sides that will be in the mould, because lint from
      towels can get onto the model. When sitting on a dry towel the
      water is absorbed downward into the towel and pulled from
      the top surface first, so there is no need to directly dry it.
    • Set up your mould frames on a sheet of
      paper on a flat surface,
      leaving about 5-10mm around the model (more – for softer
      silicone and/or larger soap models, less – for smaller soap
      models and harder silicone). Tape around all cracks and
      corners and edges to ensure no leaks. You can also use putty,
      clay or hot glue, but tape is by far the easiest and least
      damaging method to use. I used scrap wood, but you can use
      any thing that makes walls (like cardboard or plastic).


    • Mix and pour your silicone. Pour the
      silicone in a thin stream
      into the lowest point (around the sides), so the model is slowly
      covered. Check out Tap Plastics site for videos and use of the
      “bombs away” method of pouring. Air bubbles can get
      trapped in the silicone and up against the model. To avoid this
      for detailed designs, you can rub silicone into the details of the
      model first to ensure there are no bubbles, then place into the
      frame and pour the rest of the silicone. Most small guest soaps
      take about 60ml of silicone; larger ones can take 100+ml of
      silicone. You can pour rice into the space to measure the
      volume you need. Just leave everything that you get silicone
      on (cups, stirs, ect…) until the silicone is hard and peal off for
      an easy clean. Beware of working over carpet or fabric,
      silicone can soak into fabrics and carpet and be hard to get out.


    • Allow to harden and then unmold and
      trim the scraps!


  • Viola! Hope you had a good time and
    will be able to make
    tons of unique moulds and soaps!
  • If you want to make many moulds at
    once, you can make
    more plaster copies of your soap bar by pouring plaster into
    your first soap mould, quickly making you lots of plaster
    copies which you can arrange in to a slab or grid for many

Common Issues with Making Soap in Silicone Moulds:

Sometimes pouring CP soap into the molds can cause soap
to get trapped in the details and corners. To help the soap flow into
every detail, you can rub the inside of the mould with your soaping
oil or water.

Silicone is not great a great insulating material. For
some climates
and soap recipes, this means that the soap will have a hard time
gelling and may come out soft or take a long time to cure. Some
solutions include keeping the moulds insulated in a wooden box or
with towels, CPOP by putting your full moulds into a warm oven to
force gel, and reduce the water content of your soap to around 25%
water as a % of oils to increase the speed of saponification and to
make a harder and denser soap.

(Please do not reproduce, distribute or sell without
permission information is give in good will
and we are not responsible for damages or losses resulting from the use of
our instructions and
tips) soap mold ideas

Author: Kaseen Cook,

How To make Textured Soap Mold Inserts Using Silicone Or Polyurethane


For Divider, Log & Slab Molds

This is not a difficult procedure. Basically you read the
instructions which come with your silicone then, mix the
silicone, pour it onto the textured surface and trim the piece of
silicon to fit inside your mould box. Firstly you need to purchase the
silicone which usually comes in a tin along with a small bottle of catalyst.
Simply follow the mixing instruction which come with the silicone.

Make sure you pay attention to the amounts of catalyst
needed as on my first attempt, I added a little too much and
this sped up the curing considerably, forced me to move faster and
because the mixture had started to thicken slightly it made it difficult to
get the silicone into the finer details of the textured pattern I was using.
Avoid mixing too vigorously as this will incorporate bubbles which
will ruin the detail of the texture which in turn spoils the finished
product. For this tutorial I am using a piece of
textured glass which is a leftover from one of my previous crafts.
Make a wall around the area of the texture you want your finished
size you need. I used narrow strips of cardboard for mine. Allow a little
more to the size of the border as you can trim it off later to fit the
mould. This can be plasticine, putty, Blue-Tack, cardboard and packaging
tape. It only needs to be deep enough to cover the surface of the pattern
and contain the silicone within the wall.




You can see how the surface is uneven, the mix thickened
up too fast because I added a little too much of the catalyst but the
important textured side worked fine. Pour in the
silicone and hopefully its still liquid enough to “Self Level” but just in
case have a flat ended spatula or similar, ready to push the mix into the
areas you need to cover. Try and keep the surface flat also because this can
make the finished insert sit unevenly in the mould.


Silicone will peel away easily when it has set after 12
hours. Silicone usually releases easily from most surfaces and as I was
using textured glass which is non absorbent I didnt need to seal the


When the insert is ready to use simply lay it on the
bottom of your mould and pour your soap as you normally do.



When its finished the bottom will end up being the top of
the soap bar showing its textured surface
Sealing the Surface Before Making the Mould. I soon worked out that silicone
is an expensive medium with, and I found polyurethane did the same job at
half the cost, but if you use polyurethane you will need to seal whatever
you are molding with a mould release product. It would be wise to have a
little practice first before making your major project. Just to get the feel
of the polyurethane. Any ‘mould release agent will do, I used a ‘spray on
silicone which I bought at the hardware shop.

You can use‘WD-40 in the
distinctive blue and yellow spray can, the same product you use on car
engine distributors to keep the water out. Another is ‘CRC Silicone Spray
which also comes in an aerosol can. You can use any product which will form
a thin film between the glass and the polyurethane. ‘Liquid Wax was is
another. Apply them thinly and using a fine brush spread the release agent
into all nooks and crannies and let dry. If your using the polyurethane,
then make sure you let it cure for the full 24 hours or it is mighty hard to
pull it away from the glass. You dont need to use a release agent with

I then made another insert using the polyurethane and I
was much happier with the way it behaved while using it. Not only did I have
more time to pour but it was more liquid and filled all the nooks and
crannies giving a beautifully detailed result. You will need to let the
polyurethane cure for at least 24 hours before peeling it away.


Its very flexible.


The following photos are those of other soaps using the
patterned silicone and polyurethane liner.







Soap Mold Tutorial Provided by Terry “Nizzy”

How To Make Your Own Silicone Soap Mold Liners Tutorial

How To Make Your Own Silicone Soap Mold Liners Tutorial

ou can make your own silicone liners for your soap moulds, all
you need is some RTV silicone (easily sourced from the internet or
locally) and some simple supplies you can usually find around the
house. Silicone is not a cheap material, so making your own can
save you labor cost , as well as make soaping easier and more fun
without having to line your moulds all the time! You can also pour
your liners onto cool textures to make all sorts of uniquely
textured soaps. Try pouring on engraved plaster to create a liner
custom made with your logo. It takes a bit of patience, but is
certainly not too hard for anyone to accomplish in a weekend.

Silicone is the only material that will adhere to silicone. It does not
“glue” the pieces together, it chemically welds them, which means
that when joining two pieces of silicone with silicone they become
chemically and physically the same object. This is like metal
welding, only with silicone, so the finished product is just as
strong as one that was made with one pour. There isnt much
difference to the end user having a liner made in one pour vs. one
welded from pieces, although they take longer to make, but as
long as the pieced one is put together with care and attention to
detail, they are just as good. Welded silicone liners are strong and
practical for those wanting to make liners and save some money.

**For even cheaper liners, you could try Polyurethane Rubber.
Polyurethane is not ”self-releasing“ like silicone, so will require
mould release agents like food grade silicone and wax, but savings
of up to 50% off the cost of silicone can be realized. The pros for
this material are its much cheaper than silicone, firm but flexible
material, and very durable and much longer lasting than silicone.
The cons are that when molding soap the mould will need a
release agent like food grade silicone or wax, so its a bit more
work than silicone.



Planning the layout and height of your liner,
and then arrange into one or two flat areas as in the diagram. Remember, silicone is expensive,
measure twice and pour/cut once!

Determining the amount of silicone for your mould
I would suggest a liner thickness of 3mm for the most cost
effective use of your silicone as well as not taking up too much
space in your mould, while retaining adequate strength.
After you have determined the surface area you will need to cover
with silicone (the internal surface area), ensure the measurements
are in cm, and determine the total surface area in cm squared. If
you want a 0.3cm thick mould (3mm), multiply the surface area by
the thickness of the liner to get the volume of silicone in cm cubed,
or ccs, or mls. This volume is equivalent to the material in weight
(as 1cc/ml of silicone is approximately 1g of silicone), so for
measurement purposes convert the volume to weight.

Here is an example to illustrate:

Liner surface area (as contained in the frame) is 39x32cm = 1,248cm2

1,248cm2 x 0.3cm(thick) = 374.4ml (or ccs) = 375g

With the average cost of silicone at $0.05/g = $18.75

As you can see increasing the thickness will greatly
increase the price of the liner:

1,248cm2 x 0.5cm(thick) = 624ml (or ccs) = 624g silicone. = $31.20

1,248cm2 x 1cm(thick) = 1,248ml (or ccs) = 1,248g silicone. = $62.40


  • Long wooden battens or strips of cardboard or any other straight objects to make frames.
  • Stirring stick/spatula, plastic tub, and gloves.
  • RTV Silicone (I would suggest starting with about 1kg for cost
    effectiveness and for just enough volume without huge
    investment. If you plan to make many liners or if you have large
    liners, 5kg packages are the most economical and cost effective of
    the smaller packages, ranging from $200 to $250AUD)

Desirable properties (guide only):

Low to medium viscosity (45,000 cps or less) for
smooth pouring, medium cure time (min about 6 hours
to full cure and 30min pot life to allow working time,
real cure time is usually half of advertised cure time),
and Shore A hardness of 25 or greater the firmer the
silicone (Shore A of 35-50) the thinner the liner can be
while retaining the same strength and support (as long
as the other qualities are still present).

Australian Resources and Suggestions:

Webmasters Note: there are many
similar products available in different countries, I currently reside in the
USA and upon searching for similar products available both online and in my
local area via Google, I did not find it hard to locate these products. If
you need help please visit our forum and pose any
question you may wish to ask]


Adelaide Molding and Casting


(made by Barnes Silicone)

Maximould, M4503, Ultrasil.

Barnes Silicone (


Use caution if you choose to use
Pinky Silicone, as this silicone must be molded in
about 6minutes, which may not be enough time to
pour/spread your liner, otherwise its the best silicone
so may be worth a try! Tufsil 25, Maximould, M4503,

Solid Solutions

Suggestions (Tin Catalyzed): Solid Mould 500,
Polytek TinSil 70-30.


Check your local Fiberglass and Mould Making
Supplies Store; many carry RTV silicone and the
Barnes range of products (their website lists
stores that supply their silicone). Just look up
“fiberglass” or “molding and casting” in the
yellow pages.


    • Layout the batons into the surface
      area rectangles required for
      your size liner, to contain/mould the silicone. Be sure to use a
      right angle tool or the corner of a sheet of paper to square your


    • Tape around the edges of your walls to
      prevent any silicone leaking out.
    • Ensure the surface you are pouring
      onto is clean. You can pour
      onto any surface, including cool textures (bubble wrap, sandpaper,
      needle point grid, ect.. beware of fabrics or carpet, silicone can
      soak in and be hard to get out!).


      You can use the side of the silicone that is touching the
      surface as the inner or outer part of your liner depending on which
      you prefer. Sometimes it is better to pour your liner onto a slightly
      textured surface like paper or MDF and use the side that contacts
      the MDF or paper as the outer side of your liner, because it will
      not grip onto your outer wooden mould when inserting.

    • Mix your silicone as per the
      manufactures guidelines (search for
      pouring silicone and the “bombs away” method on the internet for
      some really good videos. Tap Plastics makes great instructional
      videos). Pour into your frame using the “bombs away” method to
      reduce air bubbles. The bombs away method is essentially pouring
      a very thin stream from a height to stretch and pop any bubbles that
      were trapped in the silicone during mixing. Using a plastic spatula
      spread the silicone into the corners and even-out thin or thick


    • Blow across the silicone with a hair
      drier set to cool and with an
      air funnel/straightening attachment to make a concentrated blast,
      or just blow across the top of the silicone with your mouth, to pop
      any remaining bubbles (just be careful not to accidentally spit on it
      or hyperventilate lol).
    • Cover your frame with a board or other
      stiff cover if you are
      worried about lint or pets/kids getting into it while it hardens.
      Allow curing for the recommended time, heat generally speeds up
      the cure (as the reaction is endothermic), so a blast with a hair
      drier, heater or keeping it in a warn room will quicken the process.
      Do not use a heat gun or flame on the silicone as this is TOO hot.
      To clean up your mix pot and spoon, just let the silicone cure and
      peal off, its really easy to clean! Or you can put the silicone pot
      with the extra silicone on the sides in the freezer to prevent it from
      curing for about 1-2 days, and use it later to join/weld your liner


    • When dry, peal off the frame and
      surface. Trim/slice the silicone
      sides to fit into your mould.




    • Mix a small batch of silicone (about
      10g is enough) or get the
      remainder you saved from the freezer and apply to the edges of
      your liner sides and weld together supported inside your wooden
      mould (you may need blocks or other objects to hold your sides up
      from the inside as well). Wipe away excess, and allow curing.
      Youre done!silicone8


      It is less messy, easier, and fills gaps better, putting the
      silicone on the thin edges of your sides and putting in place, rather
      than smearing onto the receiving surface.

Enjoy Your Liners!


(Please do not reproduce, distribute or sell without
permission information is given in good will
and we are not responsible for damages or losses resulting from the use of
our instructions and tips)

Author: Kaseen Coo

soap moulds